7 tips to avoid ridges on 3D felt

Have you ever felted a vessel, a bag or another 3D item and found that you couldn’t get rid of the seams on the sides? Did you wonder why it happened? Did you think that those seams could have been prevented by filling the piece with a balloon or any other object?

If that’s the case, know that the issues started way before the final shaping and drying phase. And so, no filling the piece in the end would have made it flat.

Today I bring you 7 tips that can help!

Once you have those pesky side ridges on your 3D felt, it’s very difficult to get rid of them. Sure, rubbing the seam area can help, but the problem happens in the layout phase, as well as the initial phase of the felting process. So, rubbing won’t completely solve the problem. Let’s have a look at was does help.

IN THE LAYOUT PHASE

There are two things to watch for during the layout phase:

1. The layout on the edge

From my point of view, there are 2 ways you can do the layout on the edges.

If you know you lay out very thinly on the edges, let your wool go slightly beyond the resist on both sides. This will prevent the edges from becoming too thin.

On the other hand, if you tend to layout thickly on the edges, make sure you only let your wool go beyond the resist on one side. This will prevent the edges from becoming too thick.

Remember: You goal is to get a felt that is evenly thick, both in the middle of the project and on the edge of the resist. That’s the first thing you need to pay attention to during the layout.

If the edges are too thin, you may get holes in your felt. If the edges are too thin, you’ll get seams.

2. Add water and soap between layers

If you’re making a thin felt, there’s no need to worry.

But, if you're making a thicker felt, don't do the whole layout all at once. Instead, place the first 2 layers on the resist, add water and soap, and flatten the fiber. Flip the piece and repeat on the other side.

Only then should you add the next 2 layers.

If you do a thick layout and only add water and soap in the end, the wool will relax and form a lot of wrinkles. That creates a bigger risk of getting ridges on the edges of the resists, since it’s very difficult to have control over the fiber and to be able to flatten it in this situation.

AT THE BEGINNING OF THE FELTING PROCESS

3. Push the fiber inwards

Straight after you’ve finished your layout, start pushing the fiber towards the center to avoid the formation of seams. At the same time, give the piece a general rub. This promotes the creation of a “skin”, and the felt starts becoming flatter and tighter.

4. Use a lot of soap at the beginning

It’s important not to exaggerate on the water, so that the wool doesn’t become too floppy at the beginning. On the other hand, a good amount of soap helps the wool stick, it acts like a glue for the fiber. This cohesion also helps prevent seams.

5. Place some netting around the edges

As you rub the areas around the resist, having a piece of netting on the wool will prevent the fiber from moving, as well as help it keep tight on the resist edge.

FURTHER ON IN THE FELTING PROCESS

6. Felt the piece evenly

During the next phases of the felting process, make sure you rub the areas where the edges of the resist were AS MUCH AS the rest of the piece.

The same way it’s important to distribute your fiber evenly on the center and the edges, it’s also important to felt the whole piece evenly.

7. Work on the edges straight after removing the resist

When you cut the felt and remove the resist, your vessel will be flat like a pancake. So, you need to pull on the ‘poles’ and start massaging the seams immediately to start creating a round shape. If you go on felting the piece flat, the seams will be reinforced and difficult to get rid of.

The next time you make a vessel or any other 3D shape, try applying these tips. And, if you’re open to it, send me any email with your results. I’d love to see your success 😊